1) No drip edge on the eaves.
The drip edge is used to direct water from the roof, into the gutters, and not onto the fascia. The previous roofer relied on the overly long overhang of the shingles to make sure the water got into the gutter (which it didn't always).
2) Excess shingle overhang.
See above. That can cause the shingles to bend over with their own weight, and shorten their life.
3) Improper drip edge on the gable sides.
It's hard to tell, but the right side of the picture leads towards the peak of the roof, and the left side towards the gutter. The drip edge on the right should be extend over the drip edge on the left by several inches. This is so water that travels down the drip edge can safely make it to the next section of drip edge. In this scenario, water traveling down the drip edge on the right would hit the tar paper and go under the drip edge on the left, potentially damaging the roof.
4) Improper tar paper overlap.
Doesn't overlap. |
Higher tar paper (on the right) actually goes *under* the lower tar paper on the left. |
Again, you have to think like water. Gravity is going to cause water to go from high areas to low areas. As you build up the layers of the roof, you always start at the bottom. This is so that the next section up, whatever it might be (ice & water barrier, underlayment, or shingles) overlaps the one below it.
5) Undersized valley.
This may honestly have been code back when the roof was last replaced. However, it was definitely not to modern code. The new roofing valley is 20" wide, and overlaps 6" (not 1" like above!)
6) No ice & water barrier.
Again, this probably wasn't code when the roof was last replaced, and may not have even existed. Regardless, it's code now, so I did it. It's required from the eaves, up to 2' inside the interior wall.
Thankfully, none of these appear to have caused any issues.
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